Submitter/Submission Info
Society Name:  
To register armory, you must have a Society Name already registered, in the registration process, or submitted with the armory.  Write your Society Name, in full, spelled exactly as the College of Arms registered it (or as it was submitted if it's in progress).  Do not add titles (e. g., "Lady", "Sir").  Do not write an alternate persona name or a household name here. The name on a membership card doesn't count for this--only heraldic registration matters. 
Action type: 
Mark box that applies to the type of action this is. For a Resubmission or an Appeal, also check the box for the level (Kingdom or Laurel) that returned the previous submission. 
Name this badge is to be associated with:
Use this space if this badge is to be associated with a name other than the Society Name of the submitter. This is most commonly used for a household or group name.
This name is (pick one): 
Mark the box that shows the current registration status of the submitter’s Society Name.  
Already Registered: Check here if the name in the "Society Name" blank is already registered with the SCA College of Arms. Please put the date registered in the Blank at the bottom of this column.
Submitted with this device: Check here if the name in the "Society Name" blank is being submitted in the same packet as this badge.
Previously submitted: Check here if the name in the "Society Name" blank has been submitted for registration previous to this badge submission but has not yet been accepted or returned. Please put the Kingdom where the "Society Name" was submitted and the date of the LoI upon which it was included.
Legal name, Address:  
Self-explanatory. When the herald’s office needs to send a letter, they’ll use this mailing address. 
Branch Name: 
This is the name of the group that claims the zip code you entered in the Address field.
Phone number:
Submitter's phone number.  (Faster ways for the herald’s office to contact submitter with questions.) 
E-mail address: 
Submitter's email address.  (Faster ways for the herald’s office to contact submitter with questions.)
Date of birth:  
Submitter's Birth Date. The Society Name is used to tell whether submission forms are for the same person or not.  However, if that fails due to error, submitter’s Date of Birth is used.  (Mark submitter’s real birth date, not the persona's!) 
Date submitted:  
The date you hand the form to your local herald. 
Consulting herald: 
Society Name of the herald, if any, that assisted the submitter with this submission form. If submitter was own consultant leave this blank.
Herald's e-mail / phone: 
Name and contact for who helped submitter.  If submitter was own consultant leave this blank.
If using any restricted charges, please give Kingdom and date of eligibility for that charge
Used only in cases where the badge uses a restricted charge (e. g., a white belt, coronet, etc.) 
Is this badge jointly owned? YES/No & Co-owner's Society Name: 
If you want this badge to have two people owning it, mark the Yes box and list the secondary owner's personal Society Name, in full, exactly as registered (or as submitted, if in progress).  The primary owner has the right to release, permit conflict, etc., but it's also listed under the secondary owner.  
Check here for a fieldless badge: 
In period many personal badges heraldic used objects without a fixed background color. An example is the Yorkist badge that was: [Fieldless] A rose argent.  If you want a fieldless badge, mark this box and don't color in the background of the badge.
Proposed blazon:  
Write in what you think the blazon of the design is. 
 	
The Badge
The square is the place to put the emblazon, or picture, that is to be registered. The size has been regulated by Laurel Sovereign to 4.5" square.
If you have difficulty drawing, consider getting a heraldic artist.  Non-heraldic art may cause confusion or a return of the submission.  Make elements “Big, Bold, and Butch” to fill the space available within reason.  Please use thick-ish lines for major outlines, to help computer scanning.  For example, the outline of the roundel shape on the form is a nice thickness. 
Make your original a black-and-white outline drawing.  Use black ink.  Do NOT use blue, grey or pencil. (This allows copies to be made more easily.) Do not fill in black areas. Think "coloring book" drawing. Once the line drawing is complete, this becomes your "master copy".  Make the copies needed from the master copy. It's much easier than drawing ten separate copies. Remember the size restriction or the submission may be returned. Make sure that the outline of the square box is bold so it shows up in your photocopies.   
When coloring a badge, avoid neon colors or pastel shades. The colors should be as close to true as possible. Use markers that don't smear or run. Crayons and colored pencils do not usually work very well. Colored pencils don't make a good solid color and they fade. Crayons have the same problems, plus they can make the forms stick together.  Don’t use metallic markers because they don't last, flake off, and may end up looking dark brown or black instead of silver or gold.  When you make a banner or place your armory on a fighting shield, etc. you can use metallic paints but please, when you color in your submission forms, use white for argent (even if you mean it to be silver) and plain yellow for Or (even if you hate yellow). 
Do NOT use color printers. Laurel Sovereign is likely to return forms where the color has been mechanically reproduced. The ink is not stable and within weeks the purple you printed might turn red or blue or even black. Blues tend to fade, greens turn blue and reds can end up pink in a matter of days.  It is extremely important that the colors on the forms stay the same throughout the submission process at the very least and, hopefully, longer. These forms have to last for years in Laurel-Sovereign-of-Arms' filing cabinet, where they will be examined to help resolve possible conflicts and other heraldic issues in the future. Therefore the longer the colors stay true, the better. 
So what can you use to color in the forms? We recommend good watercolor markers and implore you to stick with good solid midrange colors (not sky-blue or midnight blue, just blue, etc).  Crayola Classics markers are a good, inexpensive set of markers that are excellent to use.  (Make sure it is NOT the washable variety.)  
Color forms received that show evidence of having mechanically reproduced colors will be held pending the receipt of properly colored forms.	
The Accountability
Legal Signatures 
Submitter's Legal Signature:
This ensures that the submitter has seen and approved the artwork and other information included on the form before the form is submitted.
Artist's Legal Signature:
This ensures that the artist is willing to take responsibility for their artwork.
If these signatures are not present on the form the submission will be returned from the Kingdom Saker Herald's Office.
Accounting section
This section is used for keeping track of money submitted with the submission. Each name element should be tracked individually even if a single check is written to cover the fees for multiple heraldic elements. 
Remember the required fees must accompany the submission packet or else the packet will be pended at the Kingdom Saker Herald Office. Click here for the current fee schedule.
If the local group herald will be keeping funds (they are allowed to keep two dollars) from the initial $9 /element fee, the LOCAL section MUST be filled out. If this section is not filled out, the Kingdom Saker Herald Office will expect the full $9 / element fee. If this section is blank and less than $9 is received, the submission will be held pending receipt of the rest of the required funds.